THE TABLE
Tantris: Fifty Five Years in the Same Building
Open since 1971 and never moved, in the purpose built house it opened in. Munich has rebuilt itself around Johann-Fichte-Strasse 7. The address has not changed once.
Read the review →A Munich restaurant with no choice on the menu, a new set menu every night, and a wine shop attached. The wine list is built by people whose day job is selling the bottles, which changes what ends up in the glass.
One room, one menu
Broeding is at Schulstrasse 9 in Neuhausen, the same Munich district as the Nymphenburg porcelain manufactory, and it does one thing. There is no menu to choose from. One set menu changes every day. Monday to Thursday it runs three to five courses from EUR 75. On Fridays, Saturdays and the days before public holidays there is a three course pre dinner menu at EUR 75 or five courses at EUR 119. The wine pairing is EUR 45, 60 or 73 with three, four or five courses, and there is a non alcoholic pairing at EUR 33, 44 or 55, which is rarer than it should be in a house this serious about wine. Monday to Saturday, evenings only from six, closed Sundays and from Christmas to Epiphany. Wine is sold from three in the afternoon. Manuel Reheis runs the kitchen. Gottfried Wallisch runs the room. The produce is organic and largely Demeter certified, which is biodynamic rather than merely organic, and the difference shows up in what is on the plate in February.
The wine is the reason to understand this place properly
Broeding is a restaurant and a wine shop in the same building, and the list is almost entirely Austrian, with some German and Hungarian bottles alongside, chosen by their own sommeliers from small producers in those three countries. That structure produces a different list from a restaurant's list, and it is worth spelling out why. A restaurant wine list is built to sell at a margin against a menu that the kitchen controls. A merchant's list is built from what the merchant believes in enough to buy by the case and live with. When the same people do both, in the same building, you drink from the second kind of list. Growers get bought because they are good, not because they fill a price point on a page, and the person pouring has tasted the whole range and knows which vintage of the three actually worked.
The causality runs backwards, and that is the point
Combine a merchant's list with a kitchen that has no menu, and you get something almost no restaurant allows. Everywhere else, you choose the food and then find a wine for it. Here neither is chosen. The pairing is not an add on to a decision you made; it is the decision, made by the two people best placed to make it.
Why we put it next to Tantris
Tantris is an institution of fifty five years in its own purpose built house, with three kitchens and a bar. Broeding is one room, one sitting, no choice, and a shop. They are opposite answers to the same question, which is how much of the evening the guest should be asked to design. Munich holds both, across town from each other, which is a better argument for the city than either would be alone.
How to go
Go Monday to Thursday if you want the cheaper way in and the quieter room. Go on a Friday or Saturday if you want the five courses. Either way, do not go with a list of things you do not eat and expect the kitchen to work around it: that is not what this house is for, and telling them when you book is the courtesy the format requires.
At a glance
- Where
- Schulstrasse 9, 80634 Munich, in Neuhausen
- The format
- No choice. One set menu, changed every day
- Monday to Thursday
- Three to five courses from EUR 75
- Friday, Saturday and the day before a public holiday
- Three course pre dinner menu EUR 75, or five courses EUR 119
- Wine pairing
- EUR 45, 60 or 73 with three, four or five courses
- Non alcoholic pairing
- EUR 33, 44 or 55
- The kitchen and the room
- Manuel Reheis in the kitchen, Gottfried Wallisch in the room
- Sourcing
- Organic and largely Demeter certified
- The list
- Almost entirely Austrian, with German and Hungarian bottles, from small producers chosen by their own sommeliers
- Service
- Monday to Saturday from 18:00. Wine sold from 15:00. Closed Sundays and Christmas to Epiphany
The TGC view
This is the table we book when a guest says they want to be looked after rather than to choose, and it is the best wine proposition in Munich for the money because the list is a merchant's rather than a restaurant's. We pair it with Tantris across a two night stay: the two of them together say more about the city than either does alone.
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We hold the relationships, the rooms and the access. Tell us the dates and we handle the rest.
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